With a vibrant 7-inch IPS
display and a 1GHz dual-core processor, the $199 Kindle Fire can make
for one lovely tablet. With a bit of work--but no hardware
modifications--you can set up Android 4.0 on your Kindle Fire and
thenceforth use the device as a powerful general-purpose tablet despite
its incredibly low price. Email, games, Web browsing (with Chrome for
Android or any other browser)--the Kindle Fire can do it all.
This guide is directly based on the excellent guide written by XDA Developers user Kinfauns. Kinfauns's guide and his Kindle Fire for Beginners
guide are highly recommended reading, but they're fairly lengthy. We've
simplified the process and then tested it ourselves, so we can walk you
through all of steps; but please use caution when tinkering with your
gear, and understand that PCWorld accepts no responsibility for the
consequences. That said, read on for a quick step-by-step procedure that
you can follow to transform your Kindle Fire into an Android 4.0
tablet!
Ingredients
You will need:
A Kindle Fire with a full battery (if it's not full, take time to recharge it fully).
A USB cable for connecting the Kindle Fire to your computer.
A Windows computer that you have Administrator rights for.
The Kindle Fire Utility, a third-party toolkit that simplifies many tasks and includes vital drivers.
An ICS (Android 4.0) ROM for the Kindle Fire. You can pick one from this list of ROMs. For this wow-to, we'll be using AOKP,
a well-regarded third-party ROM. The latest AOKP version at the time of
this writing is build 38, but it's a good idea to check for the most recent version.
[Optional] The Google Apps bundle, including Gmail, Google Play, and
other essential Android apps. This is packaged separately from the ROM
for legal reasons. If you download AOKP, you can find Google Apps for AOKP release 38, under GApps (the last link on the page).
A willingness to void your warranty and to use the Windows command line. This how-to does not use graphical tools.
Install the Kindle Fire Drivers
For this procedure to work, your computer must correctly recognize the
Kindle Fire as an Android device. Here's how to make that happen:
1. If your Kindle Fire is connected to your computer, unplug it.
2. The KFU zip contains a folder called Kindle Fire Utility. Unzip the contents of this folder into a new folder, c:\kfu.
3. Run the install_drivers.bat file that's in the c:\kfu folder. Windows
will pop up a UAC prompt, and then start the Kindle Fire Driver
Installer.
4. As you step through the installer, you'll receive a Windows Security
alert warning you that the drivers are not signed. Install the drivers
anyway.
5. The installer should complete successfully and show a confirmation dialog with the driver name:
Kindle Fire driver installation confirmation.
Verify That the Drivers Were Successfully Installed
Before doing anything risky with your Kindle Fire, make sure that your PC fully recognizes it as an Android device:
1. Connect the Kindle Fire to your computer and wait for a few moments
while Windows recognizes it (even if you've plugged it in before).
2. Run Device Manager (Click Start, right-click My Computer, and then select Manage > Device Manager).
3. You should see the Kindle Fire registered as an Android Composite ADB
Interface, under Android Phone in the Device Manager tree.
If you see this listing, you're good to go. If this isn't exactly what
you see, you'll need to do some troubleshooting; for that, refer to the original guide which has an extended troubleshooting section under the heading "What can I do if the drivers won't load?"
Switch to Fastboot Mode
It's still not too late to turn back. Up until this point, you haven't
done anything to the Kindle itself. But now you're about to take the
first step that involves making changes to the tablet. So, without
further ado:
1. Make sure that the Kindle Fire is still connected to your computer.
2. Create a new subfolder, c:\kfu\software.
3. Unzip fbmode.zip into c:\kfu\software. It contains a single file, called fbmode (with no suffix).
4. Open a command prompt window, and copy fbmode into a user-writable location on the Kindle Fire using ADB:
adb push C:\kfu\software\fbmode /data/local/tmp/
5. Edit fbmode's permissions so that it can run:
adb shell chmod 755 /data/local/tmp/fbmode
6. Run fbmode to switch to fastboot mode:
adb shell /data/local/tmp/fbmode
7. Using ADB, reboot the Kindle Fire:
adb reboot
At the end of this process, your command prompt window should look like this:
Command prompt window after switch to fastboot mode.
Your Device Manager should look like this:
The meaning of this notation is that the name of the device changes from
Android Composite ADB Interface to Android ADB Interface.
Finally, the Kindle Fire itself should look like this:
Kindle Fire screen after switch to fastboot mode.
The Fire will simply display a logo and stay put. It's not "stuck";
rather, it's in fastboot mode, awaiting further instructions.
Install a Recovery Image
Next, you'll install a recovery image--a miniature operating system that
you'll use later to flash the complete ROM. The recovery image will
also come in handy for creating full backups of the device, among other
things.
1. Copy the TWRP .img file into c:\kfu\software. At this writing, the
latest TWRP image is named openrecovery-twrp-blaze-2.1.1.img.
2. Open a command prompt window at c:\kfu\tools and install the image:
fastboot -i 0x1949 flash recovery C:\kfu\software\openrecovery-twrp-blaze-2.1.1.img
3. Change the boot mode to Recovery:
fastboot -i 0x1949 oem idme bootmode 5001
4. Reboot into TWRP:
fastboot -i 0x1949 reboot
At this point, your command prompt should look like this:
Command prompt window after installation of recovery image.
And your Kindle Fire should look like this:
Kindle Fire screen after installation of recovery image.
Install a Custom Bootloader
You are well into the process now. Next, install the FIREFIREFIRE custom bootloader:
1. Take the FIREFIREFIRE Zip file and place it (still zipped) into
c:\kfu\software. At this writing, the latest filename is called
fff-u-boot_v1.4a.zip.
2. Copy FIREFIREFIRE into the Kindle Fire's /sdcard directory:
adb push C:\kfu\software\fff-u-boot_v1.4a.zip /sdcard/
3. On the Kindle Fire, press the Install button. Navigate to /sdcard if needed (you should already be there by default), and select fff-u-boot_v1.4a.zip.
4. Swipe to confirm. You should get a success message:
Custom bootloader success message.
5. Back up the stock OS so you can roll back to it at any time. In the root TWRP menu, select Backup,
modify the options if you like (the defaults are fine), and swipe to
confirm. Backing up will take a while, which is one of the reasons why
starting the process with a full battery is so important.
Backing up the stock OS can take a while.
Flash the Ice Cream Sandwich ROM
You're almost there! Now you just need to copy the ROM and flash it. As
noted at the outset, we used AOKP in our test runs, but different ROMs
may have different flashing procedures. Read the documentation for the
ROM of your choice.
1. Place the .zip files containing the ROM image and Google Apps into c:\kfu\software.
2. Push the ROM and Google Apps onto the device:
adb push C:\kfu\software\aokp_otter_build-38.zip /sdcard/ adb push C:\kfu\software\gapps-ics-20120429-signed.zip /sdcard/
3. In TWRP, select Wipe > Factory Reset. This will remove
all existing files from the data and cache partitions, but it won't
affect the /sdcard directory, which contains media files.
4. In TWRP, select Install. Navigate to the ROM .zip file that you placed on the device, tap it, and swipe to confirm. This will take a few moments:
Installing the Ice Cream Sandwich ROM.
5. Once that is done, tap the Back button in the upper right corner, and repeat the process with the Google Apps .zip file.
6. Tap Reboot System in the lower right corner, and boot into
your brand-new Android 4.0 experience! If you wish, you can now remove
the ROM and Google Apps .zip files from your device.
You should have a fully functioning Android tablet in your hands, so
play around with it and let us know what you think. If you run into any
problems during installation, share them in the comments below so that
the community can pitch in and help you solve them. Good luck!
Your Android phone is a
powerful computer. But like any other computer, it won't run at its
best without proper care and maintenance. If you've ever owned an Android phone,
you probably noticed that it became slower after a few months of use
than it was when you first brought it home from the store. There are
several reasons for this phenomenon, and in this article I'll explain
how to get your Android smartphone back into tip-top shape. You can
accomplish a lot of what I'll be recommending here by performing a
simple factory reset; but if you take that approach, you'll lose your
data and have to reconfigure your phone. So instead, grab your Android
phone and follow these steps to get it running like new again.
Clear the Cache
Android phone maintenance: Clearing the cache.
Have an app that's always crashing? Rather than force-closing or
uninstalling it, try clearing its cache. This simple step will help
resolve most of the issues that troublesome apps may be
experiencing--and it won't create new problems, as forcing the app to
shut down might. To clear an application's cache, open the Settings menu
on your phone and click Applications. Then select Manage Applications
and tap the app that's been having problems. Don't worry--all of your
data and settings will remain intact; you're just getting rid of
temporary files that may be causing difficulties.
Uninstall Apps
Check your app drawer for apps you don't use or need.
Even though it's my job to love apps
(and I do love them), improperly written ones can cause all sorts of
trouble for your Android phone. Built-in problems can range from storing
critical data as a plain-text file in your memory card to sullying your
notification bar with constant updates that can't be disabled.
Consider the official Facebook app:
Opening it automatically turns on your GPS, in case you want to upload a
photo or create a status update that shares your current location.
That's fine and dandy, except that the app periodically forgets to turn
off your phone's GPS once it's done using it, wasting precious battery
power and leaving you scrambling for the nearest outlet. Even apps you
aren't intentionally using may be running processes in the background
that waste resources for no good reason.
Unfortunately, task killers are generally ineffective
at combating this problem, so your only practical option is to open
your app drawer and uninstall apps that you don't regularly use. Doing
so will open up space on your phone for more music, videos, and
pictures, and it will help reduce the number of apps that are running in
the background.
Clean Out Your Memory Card
Cleaning out your SD Card may not boost your phone's performance, but
it makes sense to remove any old or unused files that are just taking
up space on the card. To identify the biggest hogs on your memory card, I
recommend installing DiskUsage.
This app shows you which files on your phone are taking up the most
room, though you'll have to plug your phone into a computer or use a
file browsing app (such as Astro) to delete the unneeded files.
DiskUsage shows you what's on your SD Card.
You should do this whenever you uninstall applications, largely
because some apps leave folders of data behind when they're uninstalled.
If your phone is rooted, you can download the SD Maid app
to automatically clear out old junk files. SD Maid also lets you freeze
or remove any bloatware that came preinstalled on your smartphone--so
you can finally get rid of the annoying Blockbuster app that continually
asks you for updates.
Root Your Phone
If you don't mind voiding your warranty, rooting can breathe new life into an ancient Android phone. We've described how to root your Android phone countless times in the past, so you can refer to one of those guides
when you're ready to walk through the actual process. A rooted phone
gives you complete control over your Android device: You can remove
unwanted bloatware, install root-only applications, and even load custom
ROMs that change the look and feel of Android on your phone.
Another benefit of rooting is that you no longer have to depend on
your carrier for Android updates. While everyone else is waiting for
their phone to receive Android 4.0,
you can probably find a ROM for your phone that will give you a taste
of Ice Cream Sandwich a few weeks or months before the update officially
appears.
Rooting isn't without its hazards, however, and a serious mistake can
render your phone unusable. In my opinion, though, the benefits are
worth the risks, especially if you have an older Android phone; it's definitely an option you should consider if you aren't satisfied with your current Android situation.
Trying to decide between, say, the hot new Samsung Galaxy S3 and the
iPhone 4S? How about the Amazon Kindle Fire and Google Nexus 7 tablets?
Sure, PC World's reviews can help tremendously, but sometimes it's
nice to see a blow-by-blow comparison between the exact models you've
narrowed down.
For that, head to Versus IO. This
handy site lets you compare two mobile phones or tablets side-by-side,
giving you not only an overview of their features, but also explanations
as to what those features' advantages are.
Let's use the aforementioned S3-vs.-4S as an example. When you type in the names of those two models and click Go,
you'll immediately see images of the two phones side by side -- a great
way to see just how much difference there is between 4.8-inch and
3.5-inch screens. (Answer: huge difference.)
Versus IO also tells you how many reasons there are in favor of one
model over the other. For example, the Galaxy S3 has 19 points in its
"Pro" column, versus just 10 for the iPhone.
Scroll down and you'll see those reasons spelled out in impressively
plain English. Under the Connectivity section for the S3, the
description notes that it has an HDMI output, versus "no" on the iPhone,
and explains why you'd care: "Video and movies can be watched on a TV
with HDMI input."
On the flipside, the iPhone offers "Direct OS updates by OS vendor,"
which is important because "It can be updated directly by the OS vendor,
so no need to wait until the manufacturer or network provider releases
an update."
I think these kind of real-world explanations can be especially
helpful to novice shoppers, who may not appreciate the differences
between, say, a 40nm and 45nm processor.
Versus IO has more phones than tablets (the Barnes & Noble Nook
series was nowhere to be found), and not every aspect of every device is
factored in. Just because a phone has a bigger battery, for example,
doesn't mean it has better battery life. And the site doesn't take
pricing or carriers into account.
Still, for those who like to not only compare specs but also learn more about them, Versus IO is a great place to visit.
Printing anything from anywhere is no longer fantasy. In fact, it's
often a necessity if using a smartphone, tablet, or laptop is an
essential part of your daily workflow.
Cases in point: You receive a huge spreadsheet attachment on your
smartphone, and need a way to view the document without squinting. Or
you revise a PowerPoint deck just as your plane lands, and need to print it before you arrive at a meeting. Or maybe you’re just staying with family out of town, and need to print a boarding pass directly from your phone.
Whatever the case, wouldn't you like to send a print job to the
printer you spot down the hall, or to a printer in an office superstore
down the block? Or how about sending a document from San Francisco to
your own printer back in Chicago?
Epson's iPrint app lets you print photos or documents, save to cloud storage, and more.
Mobile printing technology makes all of this possible. Printers with
wireless or Web connectivity can communicate far beyond a specific user
or workgroup. And printer vendors, all too happy to help you keep
printing, are rolling out solutions that use e-mail or cloud-based print
servers as the backbone for sending print jobs. Big companies like
Apple, Google, and HP have particularly well-developed technologies that
address issues such as reaching older printers, or finding places to
print when you’re on the road.
Get ready and set to print
Where and how you get started depends on how far you want to take
your printing capabilities. You'll also have to consider three basic
issues:
1. Find your printer, find your app: Your device and
printer of choice need to find each other. Obviously, it's easy to set
up mobile printing around your home or office, where you own or already
have access to the printer. But what about when you must send a job to
an unfamiliar printer? Luckily, checking a printer’s online feature
sheet will tell you whether it supports a solution to cover your mobile
device or situation. You can also visit the iOS App Store or Google Play
to search for a mobile app from the company that makes the printer you
want to use (conversely, you won't have much luck searching for these
apps in the Windows Phone Store or Windows Store). And if you want to find printers in random places as you travel, apps can help you detect accessible printers—at places like office stores and copy shops that offer printing on the fly (for a fee).
2. Print prudently: Security is a big issue with
mobile printing. You want to protect remotely printed jobs from being
seen by prying eyes, and also protect your Web-connected printer from
being accessed by unauthorized users—or even hackers. Simple wireless
printing usually prints the job immediately, so you’ll need to be nearby
to pick it up. If you’re sending to a printer that’s not immediately
accessible, look for a solution that gives you a passcode and holds your
job until you get to the printer and enter the code. If you’re part of a
big company, your IT department may require you to stick with
implementations that lie within protected networks.
3. Accept limitations: A major challenge with mobile
printing is the lack of a reliable connection and an installed driver.
Printer vendors have had about three years to work out the biggest
transmission kinks, but it’s still possible that your print job will go
astray, and you’ll have to resend it. More commonly, you’ll miss that
driver when your print job comes out looking funny. While most mobile
solutions will let you print Microsoft Office files, photos, and PDF
files with decent results, formatting hiccups could include extra pages,
cut-off pages, font substitutions, and odd scaling.
Mobilize your own printer
The easiest kind of mobile printing targets the printer you know: the one that's sitting in your home or office. If it’s on a wireless network, you
can print to it directly from nearby. Conversely, if it’s connected to
the Internet, you can use an e-mail-based sending app to print to it
remotely. An office you’re visiting may even have a printer that you can
connect to in one of these ways.
If you use an iOS device, you’re in luck: Major printer vendors—such
as Brother, Canon, Dell, Epson, HP, and Lexmark—cover iOS devices
through either their own app or compatibility with Apple AirPrint. AirPrint lets you print from an iOS device to any AirPrint-compatible printer that
shares the same wireless network. Your iOS device will detect the
printer and print to it. (If your printer doesn't support iPrint, the
third-party FingerPrint app
may help.) As with many direct-connect printing apps, you'll have
little to no control over the details of your print job, but you'll
usually get a decent, if not perfect, print.
Android devices, too, enjoy either a wireless app for direct printing
from most printer vendors, or the benefits of Google Cloud Print. Google Cloud Print is notable for being brand-independent and for working with older printers as well as newer ones.
New Windows 8 devices don’t have much to work with yet, other than platform-independent solutions like Google Cloud Print and HP ePrint. Surface tablets, like devices using Apple AirPrint, will print to any printer on the same wireless network.
To use Google Cloud Print, an older printer needs to be connected to a
Windows, Mac, or Linux PC that’s turned on and connected to the
Internet. If you see the term “Google Cloud Print Ready” in your
printer’s specs, that means it can connect directly to the Internet,
skipping the computer intermediary. The sending device has to run
Android or iOS and use the Chrome browser, and you have to have a Gmail
account. A Printoption will appear for printing Gmail
attachments or files uploaded to Google Drive. You can also share your
printer with friends or colleagues who have the same basic setup, either
as individuals or as part of a Google Group. Not bad for an app that’s
still officially in beta.
GoogleWhen
you connect to a printer or print service using Google Cloud Print,
their names appear as destinations in the Chrome browser’s print dialog.
Find printers wherever you go
HP’s ePrint may be brand-specific, but it’s still the most mature
mobile printing solution. It comes in enterprise as well as consumer
flavors, and HP’s ePrint Public Print Locations let you print to machines at UPS Store and FedEx Office
locations, as well as many hotels, airport lounges, public libraries,
and other organizations. HP offers an ePrint app for iOS, Android, and
BlackBerry devices that lets you locate accessible ePrint Public Print
Location printers and send print jobs on the fly.
Widely deployed services like these show how you can remove some of
the uncertainty from needing to print when you’re on the go, whether
passing through a city or an airport. More office stores, airports,
hotels, and even public libraries are adding printers that can be
detected by mobile users. FedEx Office stores also accept Google Cloud
Print jobs, if you choose “Print to FedEx Office” in the Cloud Print
dialog box.
Your device app may be able to detect compatible printers in the
area, or you may get access information from the airport-lounge manager
or librarian. In most cases, after sending the job, you get back an
access code to release the printout when you get to the printer. In most
cases, you also pay a fee for the print.
And if you're really in a pinch, and a FedEx Office, Office Depot,
OfficeMax, Staples, or UPS store is nearby, each of those brands will
let you upload a document to the cloud (a website) for printing, then
pick up the job in person at the store.
Mobile printing is being embraced in multiple ways by multiple
vendors, but any attempt at uniform standards is still in its infancy.
Nevertheless, it’s only a matter of time—probably less, rather than
more, time—before it will feel natural to print to any printer that happens to be nearby without going through hoops such as installing a driver or plugging in a cable. HAve A guD tiME...:)
Facebook announced last week
that Timeline—its redesigned profile page—is becoming mandatory for all
users. If you don’t switch to Timeline on your own, Facebook will do so
for you within “the next few weeks.”
Facebook has been rolling out Timeline slowly since December, after first introducing it
at its F8 developer conference in September. The project is one of
Facebook’s most ambitious and significant redesigns to date, as it seeks
to become your digital scrapbook with the capability to document your
life from birth to present day, and revisit old posts more easily.
While not everyone is on board
with Timeline, the switch is inevitable. Here’s our complete guide to
Facebook Timeline, from making the switch to adjusting your privacy
settings, in order to make the transition easier.
Getting Started: Facebook Timeline basics
To switch your profile to Timeline on your own, visit facebook.com/timeline and click the “Get It Now” button.
After you make the switch, Facebook will immediately send you to your
new Timeline page. At this point, only you can see your new
Timeline—all your Facebook friends will still see your old profile
design.
From the day you choose to up update to Timeline (or from the day
that Facebook switches you), you’ll have one week to make any changes
you want—including deleting old posts, adding life events and
more—before your new profile goes live for your friends to see. Or, if
you’re ready to debut Timeline before the one-week period, you can click
“Publish Now” to push it live.
Facebook’s Timeline feature will soon be mandatory for all users of the social networking service.
New features
There are a number of new features and components that you’ll
discover once you switch to Timeline. Here are a few of the important
ones: Inline privacy controls: When you update your
status, you’ll notice a drop-down menu that shows exactly who you’re
sharing a post with: Public, Friends, Only Me or Custom. When you change
this setting, it will stay how you set it for future posts until you
change it again. You can also designate a status for certain lists. Navigating Timeline: There are two easy ways you can
revisit your past posts. First, you can choose a year by clicking it on
the Timeline slider on the right side of your screen, then drill down
by month. Or, you can start by clicking the option beside your name and
next to the “Update Info,” called “Activity Log.”
Within your Activity Log you can sort your past posts by everything
from only items you’ve posted, posts by others, comments, notes, likes,
info updates and more. This comes in handy when you’re deciding what you
want to keep on your Timeline. (For more on this, see the next section
on privacy.) Adding “Life Events”: Just above your inline privacy
controls is a new option—“Life Event.” Just as you can share a status
or photo with your friends, you can also fill in your Timeline by
highlighting events from your past, such as previous jobs, family and
relationships, location moves, travel and more.
After you choose a category to update, you’ll be brought to a form to
fill in the details: the location, who you were with, the date, a
backstory, photos and a privacy setting for who can see this life event. Highlight what matters: As part of Timeline’s more
visual interface, you’re able to denote which posts deserve more
prominence and which are less important, which is reflected in the size
of the post.
For example, if you want to highlight a new photo album of a vacation
that you just updated, hover over the item and click the star icon.
This will turn this item into a “featured post,” which means it’s more
prominently displayed.
Similarly, if you want to hide a particular post from your
Timeline—but not delete it entirely—hover over the post and click the
pencil icon.
How to adjust your privacy settings
When you (or Facebook) migrates your account to the new Timeline,
you’ll have one week to make adjustments to your past posts and privacy
settings before your Timeline will go live for everyone to see. You can
publish your Timeline yourself anytime within the seven-day waiting
period.
It’s important to note that Facebook does not change the privacy
settings of your old posts; it retains the privacy settings from when
you originally posted it. That means that while today you may limit wall
posts to just your “Limited Profile” list, posts from years ago could
be “Friends only” or even public since the Limited Profile option did
not exist at the time.
You have a few options when it comes to pruning old posts: Make all posts friends-only: It’s possible that your
past posts have varied privacy settings based on when they were posted.
One way—the easiest of them all—is to use one of the blanket privacy
settings: “Limit the Audience for past Posts.” You’ll find this option
near the bottom of your Privacy Settings page.
If you decide to use this option, the content on your Timeline that
you’ve shared with more than your friends—such as public posts—will
automatically change to Friends only. With this setting, though, people
who are tagged and their friends will still be able to see the post. Limit the posts by others on your Timeline: Another
way to hide past posts is to limit specific people or lists of people
from viewing what others have posted to your wall. To do this, go to
your Privacy Settings page, then select “Edit Settings” next to “How You
Connect.” Select the drop-down menu next to the last item—“Who can see
posts by others on your timeline?” and choose “Custom.”
In the box under “Hide this from,” type the names of the people or
the lists that you want to exclude from viewing posts from others on
your wall—for example those on your Limited Profile list. Then click
Save Changes. Use “Activity Log” to edit posts manually: On your
Timeline, click the “Activity Log” button that appears under your Cover
Photo (the large landscape picture). From here, you can use the
drop-down menu in the top-right that says “All” to drill down to every
type of post or event that has appeared on your wall.
From this view, you can see who currently can see a particular item
by clicking on the gear icon next to the post. You can also click the
circle icon next to that to either “star” it on Timeline, hide it from
Timeline, delete the post entirely or change the date.
Beware of scams
If you’re not a fan of Facebook’s new Timeline, you’re not alone. In a CIO.com poll
of more than 800 people, 88 percent responded that they dislike the new
profile design. Unfortunately for them—and contrary to Facebook Pages
and Groups popping up—there’s no hitting the rewind button to revert to
the old profile.
These pages, which you can find easily by searching Facebook for the
keyword “Timeline,” have attracted tens of thousands of people. They are
generally entitled “Deactivate Facebook Timeline on your Profile” or
“Deactivate Your FB Timeline” and are found under app, public figure,
community, cause, website and organization categories.
They also have a number of characteristics in common: Most request
that you “Like” its page before it reveals how to receive your old
profile design, then it instructs you to click a cluster of “Like”
buttons and a “Share” button; select a state or country; and choose
friends to invite to the application or group.
Security experts suggest that you steer clear of these bogus pages. Generally, Facebook’s official Facebook page and its official security page
are two good resources to check if you’re unsure about whether or not a
page or meme is legitimate. On these pages, Facebook will post
information about new security features, tips and rumors.
Facebook Timeline and the new apps
Along with Facebook’s announcement of Timeline in September, it also introduced a “new class of apps” that go hand-in-hand with Timeline. Last week, Facebook officially launched more than 60 of these new applications.
While Facebook hopes that these new apps will keep you on its site longer, you can expect another change, too: a lot more noise in your Ticker and News Feed,as well as an influx of over-sharing. To avoid this, there are a few things you can do. Choose your settings before you download: Below the
app summary information when you first choose to download an app is an
option: “Who can see activity from this app on Facebook.” How you’ve set
your default privacy settings—either public, friends or a custom
setting—that will determine the automatic setting for all your
applications, unless you change it.
If you’re interested in using an application but don’t want your
activity broadcast to your friends’ News Feeds and Tickers, choose the
“Only Me” option. While your activity will appear on your Timeline, no
one else will be able to see it. Adjust settings after downloading: If you’re not sure what your app preferences are or you want to adjust them, you can review them one by one from within your Privacy Settings page.
From the drop-down menu in the top-right of your screen, select
“Privacy Settings” then choose “Edit Settings” next to “Apps and
Websites.” On the apps privacy page, click “Edit Settings” next to “Apps
you use”—this will show you all the apps that you have downloaded, and
the privacy and permissions associated with them.
Here, you can remove the app if you no longer want it connected to
your account. You can also preview what permissions the app has and
remove certain ones (some are mandatory, which you cannot remove). The
last option, “App activity privacy” will tell you who can see posts and
activity from this app. If you don’t want Facebook to share your
activity, change this option to “Only Me.” Know how your friends share your activity: Your friends and other people you share information with can also share your activity with apps they use.
To prevent your friends from sharing your app activity with others on
Facebook, go to “Privacy Settings,” choose “Edit Settings” next to
“Apps and Websites” then “How people bring your info to apps they use.”
Here, make sure the box next to “My app activity” is unchecked.
If your iPhone suddenly stops taking a charge, but everything else keeps
working, there may be a fix. I know someone with firsthand experience
of just such an issue, and can offer advice that may solve your iPhone’s
charging problem.
Because I want to ensure that I don’t unintentionally void his warranty
in print, I’m going to protect the anonymity of the individual at the
center of this story, and call him Flex Riedman.
Earlier this week, Flex went out with a buddy of his for dinner at a
local restaurant. During the course of the meal, a nearly-empty beer
bottle was tipped—a tragedy unto itself—but things immediately got
worse: Flex’s iPhone was on the table, and it soaked up some light
lager.
But Flex’s 4S seemed none the worst for wear. He toweled it off with the
portion of his napkin not covered in honey mustard, and continued
enjoying his night out with his friend.
On his car ride home, Flex plugged the iPhone into his car’s dock
connector cable and listened to music on the short trip home. At this
point, the spilled beer’s contact with his iPhone was less than a faint
memory, it was a nothing two-second incident out of a couple hours with
good company and well-seasoned steak fries.
Time marched on; bedtime arrived. After checking on his kids using the
iPhone as a flashlight, Flex plugged the phone into his bedside charger.
The phone didn’t start charging.
Flex did what any of us would do: He unplugged the cable and plugged it back in again. Nada.
A speaker dock sits on Flex’s nightstand. He unplugged the iPhone and
seated in the dock. Music started playing immediately. But still, the
phone showed no indication that was plugged in. Not a warning that it
couldn’t charge, just—nothing.
It was at this point that The Beer Incident came forward in Flex’s mind.
“Oh drat,” Flex thought because this is a family publication. He looked
inside his iPhone’s dock connector port to see if it showed the telltale red indicator of liquid damage. Mercifully, it didn’t.
But Flex saw no other detritus inside the dock connector port that could
explain away the issue; no lint or other debris seemed be gumming up
the works. He turned off the iPhone 4S and plugged it back in. An iPhone
that’s charging successfully should power back on in this situation,
but Flex’s didn’t.
He reached into his nightstand and grabbed his old trusty iPhone 4 and
plugged it into the speaker dock to charge, figuring that if he needed a
phone the next day, he should charge up the one that would allow him to
do so. “I’m going to have to go to the Apple Store tomorrow morning,”
Flex said to his wife as he turned off the light.
Sleep didn’t come, though. Flex was too agitated about his iPhone 4S’s
dire circumstances. Despite his knowledge that the unchargeable iPhone
had just 22 percent of its battery life remaining, he powered it on once
again. Still no dice.
As a last-ditch attempt at fixing it himself–even, dare I say, a
foolhardy attempt, given that he’d already tried turning the phone off
and on again—Flex tried a genuine restart: He held down the Home and
Sleep/Wake buttons until the iPhone powered off and the Apple logo
reappeared. And seconds later, he heard that familiar, unmistakable
metallic electrical quack, that one that signals an iOS device is
charging. And he rejoiced.
And then he went to sleep.
The next day, the iPhone 4S was fully charged, and Flex has seen no charging problems since.
So what can we learn from Flex’s experience? Turns out, he’s not alone: Googling reveals others have solved their iOS devices’ inability to charge
with a similar restart maneuver. Whether the beer or the fates were
truly to blame is unclear, and certainly merely restarting an iPhone
won’t cure severe liquid damage. But if your iPhone stops taking a
charge, remember Flex and his small tale of personal victory, and hold
down those two buttons until the phone restarts.
Having trouble focusing on your work? You're not alone: The advent of
smartphones, tablets, and Twitter has made staying connected to the
flow of information seem seductively simple. All you have to do is leave
your email inbox open in one tab, have Facebook or Twitter open in
another, and set your phone to beep whenever you have an appointment to
ensure that you stay productive without missing a single meeting or
status update.
Yet chances are good that you aren’t as productive as you could be.
For every timely email message you catch, or every insightful Twitter
discussion you contribute to, you probably slog through 50 unimportant
email missives or waste 20 minutes declining silly game requests on
Facebook. Technology can be terribly distracting. With a few simple tips
and tricks, however, you can trim the fat from your technological
lifestyle and be more productive.
Even if you are meeting your productivity
goals currently, eliminating unnecessary distractions will help you get
more work done in less time, so you can spend those spare moments on
something more fun and fulfilling. For example, any PC user can benefit
from our guide to making your PC distraction-free;
desktop computers are more powerful than ever, but with that power
comes the responsibility to resist knocking off every 20 minutes to
check your Twitter app or play a few minutes of Skyrim.
If that responsibility sometimes weighs too heavily on you, consider
downloading a no-cost, distraction-free word processor or Web browser,
which can help you stay on track.
Or perhaps you have loads of self-discipline, but you find it
difficult to ignore people on your social networks long enough to get
any work done. Working in a high-tech industry without trying to stay on
top of Facebook, Google+, Twitter, and half a dozen other social
networks can be tough, but we have some advice to help you silence your social networks without missing any important updates.
Of course, the last source of distraction for most people is email.
You need it to work productively with colleagues and to stay on top of
your industry, but--believe it or not--you can actually ignore your email without losing your job.
In fact, you’ll probably improve your productivity even more once you
stop wasting time responding to low-priority conversations and
obsessively checking your inbox for new messages. The trick is to sit
down and figure out what’s important, and then set up an automated
filtering system that ensures you receive email only when it’s
necessary. Check out our in-depth guide for more information, and use
your newfound productivity wisely! With tons of desktop real
estate and the processing power to run practically as many apps as you
can open, staying focused on a single task while using your PC can be a
challenge. Luckily, in recent years developers have created a number of
new tools to help you establish a distraction-free workspace at home or
in the office. These apps and tools hide unused windows and menus to
help you focus on what's important and to be more productive.
Without the distraction of extraneous apps, windows, and notifications,
you'll be able to work more productively and with fewer interruptions
than you would otherwise. Here is our roundup of tools that will let you
write, work, and even browse the Web while keeping distractions to a
minimum.
Distraction-Free Word Processors
The movement toward distraction-free tools started with word processors,
and it's easy to see why: Writing requires a lot of mental energy; and
if your attention drifts to the other windows and apps open on your PC,
you can lose focus. Several good, distraction-free writing tools are
available tools to choose from. I've compiled a list of my favorites
here, but you may also want to dive into the settings of your favorite
word processor to see whether it offers an option to shut out extraneous
notifications and toolbars. Many modern writing apps include a
distraction-free full-screen mode as an optional feature--a simple
setting that saves time and ensures that you can continue to use your
editing software of choice.
If you're a Windows user looking for a clean, simple writing tool, consider the free Writemonkey. This app is great for getting work done, but so is Q10
(also for Windows). It's mostly a matter of personal preference, but I
find that Q10's timer feature is especially useful when I'm trying to
write on a strict deadline or when I'm following the Pomodoro method.
Writemonkey takes over your screen, ensuring that no outside distractions intrude on your work area. (Image credit: Writemonkey)
Mac users also have several distraction-free writing apps to choose from, including a handy app called WriteRoom
that creates a full-screen word processor and hides all menus until you
need them later. Though WriteRoom has updated over the years with a
number of strong features (for example, there's an iOS version now that
syncs well with the desktop app) it costs $10 in a field where most
competitors are free.
Productivity-minded Mac users can try OmmWriter, a free, easy-to-use dedicated writing app.
I prefer OmmWriter for
distraction-free writing in Mac OS X; not only does it help me focus and
work more productively, but it also has a few customizable themes (more
are available in the premium version of the software), along with some
soft ambient noise tracks to help drown out any distracting outside
audio.
Linux users and any Windows or Mac users dissatisfied with other offerings should take a look at the cross-platform FocusWriter,
a great little full-screen text editor that supports themes and tabbed
document browsing in addition to the usual hidden menus and keyboard
shortcuts.
Distraction-Free Desktop Apps
There's no reason to limit your distraction-free work environment to
writing tasks. Plenty of other great tools can eliminate distractions
from your PC desktop so you can stay more productive.
As many Mac users know, lots of Mac OS apps commandeer the entire screen
while running in full-screen mode in the newest iteration of Mac OS,
Lion. The operating system's support for full-screen apps has made many
of the Mac's most popular applications (including Final Cut, Photoshop,
and other video/music/image editors) distraction-proof by default. If
your Mac has Lion installed, be sure to check for a new Full-Screen App
icon in the upper right corner of your application window. If you can,
click that button to run your favorite app in a distraction-free work
zone.
Not all apps will have full-screen support, however, and in any case you
may have to run multiple windows at once. If so, you can still minimize
distractions from other apps with the help of Backdrop,
a handy app that lets you hide not just other applications but also
your computer's desktop when you're trying to get work done in one
particular tool.
Windows users may be interested in Ghoster,
a free (donationware) utility that dims all of your windows except the
currently active one, to help you stay focused. It won't actively block
notifications from programs such as AIM and TweetDeck, but you can
probably shut those down on your own if you need to get some serious
work done.
Distraction-Free Web Browsers
Undeniably the chief cause of distractions and reduced general
productivity is the Web browser. The moment you open your browser you're
just a new tab away from hours of distraction; worse, most people need
to stay connected at work and have a Web browser open for at least a few
sites (email, server management, CMS access, and the like) for much of
the day.
Luckily, you can download Google Chrome
and use it to turn any website that you need to use into a
distraction-free stand-alone app, so you can keep an eye on the websites
you need for work without wandering off for hours in search of random
articles on Wikipedia. Google Chrome's Application Shortcut feature
creates a Website-specific browser that will open and run only the site
you tell it to; all you have to do to is open the Google Chrome Tools menu (by clicking the wrench icon in the upper-right corner of your Chrome browser) and select Create Application Shortcut.
Next, choose where you want Chrome to create the application shortcut,
and you'll get a stand-alone app that will display only that one site.
Google Chrome can create site-specific application shortcuts.
Unfortunately, this feature only works for Chrome users running Windows
or Linux on their PC. Mac OS X devotees looking for a site-specific Web
browser should check out Fluid, a
free app built for Macs that lets users create dedicated shortcuts for
specific websites. The full version ($5) lets you unlock a few more
productivity features, including the ability to add Fluid links to your
toolbar so you that you can have a dedicated Wikipedia or GMail
application.
It can be galling to admit how much time we waste during the workday;
but with these productivity tools at hand (and a little bit of will
power), you should be able to make any computer-related task the
unchallenged focus of your attention.
HAVE A GUD TIME...:)
The built-in speaker(s) on your computer, smartphone, tablet, or iPod
don’t do your audio justice, especially if you want to enjoy full, rich
sound or share your music with people more than a few feet away. So
along with good headphones (see our headphones buying guide), a new set of speakers is one of the most rewarding audio upgrades you can give your gear.
But if you've recently visited any store—local or online—that sells
consumer electronics, you've likely been confronted by rows and rows (or
screens and screens) of computer speakers, speaker docks, and the like,
in many different sizes and at many different prices. Which do you
choose? To help you find the right set—for yourself or your favorite
gift recipient—here's the latest edition of our annual speakers buying
guide, which includes both general shopping advice and specific
recommendations.
What to look for when shopping
As you're browsing the aisles or webpages of your favorite stores, here are some tips to keep in mind.
Specs and sound quality
Put simply, you should ignore manufacturers' specifications, especially
frequency-response numbers. No standardized testing methodology exists
for speakers, so many vendors exaggerate specs—often laughably so—making
them essentially worthless. With very few exceptions, you can't rely on
these numbers to tell you anything about a system's audio quality.
Instead, use your own ears: Try to audition speakers locally before you
buy. While a store isn't an ideal environment for testing, it's better
than nothing, and it can let you separate the good from the obviously
bad.
When testing speakers, bring a variety of your favorite music and take
your time. A quality system provides good balance between the treble
(upper), midrange, and bass (lower) frequencies, producing full, rich
sound while preserving detail. Be especially wary of systems where the
treble detail or bass sounds especially prominent—some speakers
exaggerate one or both these to stand out in a crowded store display.
This is especially common with bass: Speakers that use small drivers—and
this includes subwoofers with small-for-subwoofer drivers—simply can’t
reproduce the lowest notes, so vendors often tweak speakers to emphasize
upper-bass frequencies. This approach adds some punch, but it can also
make the speakers sound boomy or thumpy—a trait that becomes fatiguing
over time. If deep, controlled bass is important to you, you'll need
speakers with relatively large woofers or a good-sized subwoofer.
Otherwise, consider speakers that forgo the lowest frequencies
altogether in favor of accurate sound across the rest of the audio
spectrum.
If you can't audition a system in person, read reviews from sources you trust.
Computer speakers vs. docking speakers vs. wireless speakers
Will your new speakers be used mainly with a computer? If so, any set of
standard "computer speakers"—a self-powered system you connect to your
computer using a simple analog or digital cable—will work just fine; you
just plug in and enjoy. Computer speakers also work with tablets,
smartphones, and portable media players—you just connect a cable from
the device’s headphone jack to the speaker system. (Some smartphone
charging docks and cradles even have a dedicated audio-out jack that
provides higher-quality audio than the headphone jack offers.) But there
are other options, as well.
If you’re looking for speakers to be used primarily with Apple
gear—iPhones, iPods, or an iPad—you may want to consider a system that
includes a dock cradle featuring Apple's 30-pin dock connector or
Lightning connector. The connector plugs into the port on the bottom of
your device, letting the speaker system grab the highest-quality audio
signal while simultaneously charging your player. (If the docking
speaker system can run off AC or battery power, it likely charges your
player only when the speakers are connected to AC power.) Some of these
systems can also connect to your computer via USB, letting you sync your
device with your computer while docked.
iOS devices released prior to the iPhone 5 in September 2012 use a
30-pin dock connector, while the iPhone 5 and subsequent devices use
Apple’s new Lightning connector—make
sure you buy the right kind of dock for your particular device(s). To
use an older, 30-pin speaker dock with newer, Lightning-connector
devices, you’ll need one of Apple’s Lightning-to-30-pin adapters or a third-party adapter.
A few speaker systems that include an iPad-compatible dock cradle are
out there, but not many. If none are to your liking, but you want the
charging/syncing capabilities and better audio quality that come with a
docking system, you can use an adapter cable such as CableJive's dockXtender basic ($16) or dockXtender
($26)—plus the appropriate Lightning adapter, if necessary—to connect
your iPad to any system with an iPhone dock. Keep in mind that most
iPhone/iPod speaker systems will charge the iPad slowly, if at all.
CableJive's DockBoss lets you connect any source to a 30-pin speaker dock.
If you have a Windows Phone smartphone or an Android smartphone or
tablet, speaker docks made specifically for these devices are few and
far between, so I haven’t included any in this year’s list. However, you
can connect Android and Windows Phone devices to any speaker system
using a basic audio cable; CableJive’s DockBoss
lets you connect these devices to a 30-pin iPhone speaker dock; and a
Bluetooth speaker system—see the next paragraph—is always a solid
option.
The third option, and the one that’s seen an explosion in popularity
over the past couple years, is a wireless speaker system. Most of these
connect using Bluetooth, a feature that’s quickly becoming pervasive,
especially on mobile devices. Some use Apple’s AirPlay technology,
which offers better range and audio quality than Bluetooth but works
only with Apple devices. The big advantages of most wireless speaker
systems are that you can use them with multiple devices and that you
aren’t tied to a particular location—you can walk around with your phone
or tablet, and control audio playback from a chair or desk on the other
side of the room.
iPhone and iPad dock compatibility
If you'll be using a docking speaker system with an iPhone or a 3G- or LTE-equipped iPad, look for one that sports the Made for iPhone or Made for iPad
logo. Such products were developed according to Apple's specifications,
so they're more likely to charge your device properly and less likely
to suffer from interference due to your iPhone or iPad's wireless
circuitry when not in AirPlane mode.
Multiple devices and multiple inputs
Planning to use your speakers with both a computer and a
tablet, smartphone, or other media player? Wireless speaker systems
(more on these below) usually make it easy to use multiple audio
sources—assuming most of those sources feature Bluetooth.
If wireless isn’t an option, many computer speakers have two inputs—you
can connect an additional device to them by running an audio cable from
the phone or tablet’s headphone jack to the speaker’s second input jack.
Conversely, most speaker docks also have an auxiliary-input jack for
connecting a computer or other audio source using a standard audio
cable. (As noted above, there are also adapter cables
that let you connect a computer to a speaker system that has only a
30-pin dock connector.) Make sure the speaker systems you’re considering
include such additional inputs.
Especially for computer speakers, look for systems with the additional
inputs located where they’re easily accessible, rather than
inconveniently placed on the back of the speaker or on a subwoofer
located under your desk. Also, when shopping for a speaker system to be
used with multiple devices, consider where the speakers will sit: If
you'll be doing a lot of listening at your computer, you'll likely want a
system with separate left and right speakers—which usually means
computer speakers. Otherwise, any design will do.
The controls and connections for Logitech’s Z523 are conveniently located on the right satellite speaker.On-speaker controls for computer speakers
The most-basic computer-speaker systems have no controls of their own;
you connect them to your computer and then adjust output volume using
your computer. Look instead for systems that provide their own volume
controls. Even better, many systems let you adjust bass and treble
levels to fine-tune audio output for your particular listening
environment. If the speakers you're considering include such options, be
sure the controls are easily reachable—again, on the left or right
speaker, or on a control pod or remote control, rather than on the back
of a subwoofer that sits under your desk.
Price
To some extent, the more you pay for a set of speakers, the better the
sound quality or the more features—or both—you get. Fortunately,
speakers are among the most heavily discounted computer accessories, so
be sure to shop around. Your budget may get you more than you think.
Speaker types and recommendations
In the sections below, I provide descriptions of each of the major types
of stereo (left+right channel) speaker systems on the market. (I don't
cover surround-sound systems.) For each type, I also provide a number of
recommendations at various prices. For each recommendation, I indicate
the audio-input options: analog-audio jack, optical connection, iPhone
or iPad dock, Bluetooth, AirPlay, or USB. Prices listed are MSRP, so
you'll likely be able to find each product for a lower price—sometimes
substantially lower.
Of course, these recommendations are by no means exhaustive—many quality
systems aren't listed. But you can’t go wrong with the models listed
here, and they should give you an idea of the state of the art in each
category.
Edifier’s Spinnaker e302.0 computer speakers
A 2.0 system (two channels but no subwoofer) usually comprises compact,
left and right speakers, with the amplifier housed inside one of those
speakers. By separating the left and right channels, a 2.0 system
provides much better stereo separation and imaging than a one-piece
system that confines the left and right speakers to a single enclosure.
Most 2.0 speakers also take up very little room on your desk. However,
because they tend to use small speaker drivers to keep their footprints
small, 2.0 speaker systems rarely match a good 2.1 system (below) when
it comes to bass response. Recommendations:
Ultralink’s UCube USB speakersUSB-powered 2.0 computer speakers
Although not as common as AC-powered models, some 2.0 speaker systems
get their power from a USB port on your computer. In fact, these models
use only a single USB cable for both power and audio—they grab a digital
audio signal over USB—making them appealing to people averse to cords
and cables. Some are also portable, making them convenient for laptop
listening. But because a USB port doesn't provide much power,
USB-powered speakers tend to be small, don't play very loud, and can't
produce much bass—their sound quality is rarely as good as that of a
similarly priced AC- or battery-powered speaker system. The ones listed
here offer solid sound—for USB speakers, at least. Recommendations:
Audioengine’s Audioengine 5+Studio monitors/powered bookshelf speakers
A variant of 2.0 systems, studio monitors are essentially powered
bookshelf speakers. Considerably larger than most 2.0 systems, they
generally give you much better bass response thanks to more-powerful
(and better-quality) amplification and larger low-frequency drivers.
They can play much louder, as well. In fact, a good set of studio
monitors produces sound quality closer to that of a traditional home
stereo system. On the other hand, studio monitors can take up a lot more
room on your desk, and they sometimes sound better from across a room
than when you're seated directly in front of them (called near-field
listening). Professional studio monitors, often used in recording
studios, can cost well over $1,000, but there are some great options at
reasonable prices if you've got the room. Recommendations:
Note that most studio monitors are designed like traditional bookshelf
speakers, with a flat base. This means that if you put them on your desk
without a stand, they’ll project audio directly at your stomach or
chest. Most can be wall-mounted to get them up off your desk and
positioned at ear level. Alternatively, you can buy a set of inexpensive
speaker stands designed specifically for using studio monitors on a
desk; these stands are short but angle the front of each speaker upwards
towards your ears. Some good options are the Audioengine DS1 (for small monitors; $29) and Audioengine DS2 (for larger monitors; $34).
Paradigm’s Millenia CT2.1 computer speakers
A 2.1 system (two channels plus a subwoofer) typically uses even smaller
left and right speakers than a 2.0 system. These speakers, called satellites,
produce the higher frequencies, while a larger speaker/amplifier
component, usually designed to sit under your desk, produces lower
frequencies. (A 2.1 system is often called a subwoofer/satellite, or
sub/sat, system.) The two big advantages of a 2.1 system over a 2.0
system are that you usually get much better bass response—both more
impact and the capability to extend down to lower frequencies—thanks to
the dedicated subwoofer, and the smaller left and right speakers take up
less room on your desk (though the subwoofer/amplifier unit may take up
a lot of room under it). Recommendations:
Jabra's SolematePortable speakers
If you want to be able to pack your speakers in your luggage, laptop
bag, or backpack, you need something small, light, rugged, and battery
powered. However, thanks to the smaller size and lower power of portable
speakers, you'll sacrifice sound quality for such convenience. The
majority of portable speakers can connect using a standard audio cable,
but many recent models also support Bluetooth connections (see
“Bluetooth wireless speakers,” below). Recommendations:
iHome’s iP4 BoomboxTransportable/boomboxes
Yes, the venerable boombox is back—a number of companies now make big,
luggable sound systems that run off lots of big batteries (or AC power).
But instead of cassette decks, they feature iPhone docks and Bluetooth.
Think “portable but not packable”—and, yes, you can even carry them on
your shoulder. Compared to truly portable speakers, these systems will
give you better sound, more bass, and louder volume, albeit in a much
larger and heavier package that won’t fit in your carry-on.
Recommendations:
Brookstone’s Big Blue StudioDesktop speakers and speaker docks
If you’re looking for something compact to put on your desk, the kitchen
counter, a dresser, or a bookshelf, but you don’t really need
portability, desktop speakers are the way to go. Thanks to AC power and
larger-than-portable-speakers enclosures, these systems can offer
surprisingly good sound quality, but they’re still compact enough to fit
in small spaces. Some include an iPhone or iPad dock, and some even
provide alarm-clock or radio features. A few offer battery-powered
operation, which is convenient if you just want to be able to move your
music from room to room, or take it to the backyard. (We haven’t yet
tested any Lightning-connector speaker docks, so I don’t include any
here.) Recommendations:
If you have an Android or other non-iOS smartphone or tablet, a few
docking speakers are trickling out, but we haven’t yet tested any. For
now, I recommend a system that features Bluetooth connectivity (see the
next category).
Harman Kardon’s SoundSticks WirelessBluetooth wireless speakers
Bluetooth speakers let you cut the cord—or dock—between your audio
source and your speakers. You can stream audio to stereo-Bluetooth
(A2DP) speakers from any recent Bluetooth-equipped smartphone or tablet,
including iPhones, iPads, and most Android and Windows Phone devices,
as well as from many media players, including the iPod touch and iPod
nano. Recent Macs and some recent Windows PCs also support
stereo-Bluetooth streaming, and you can use Bluetooth speakers with
other devices by purchasing a Bluetooth transmitter, offered by a number
of companies. Most Bluetooth speakers also allow you to connect to
non-Bluetooth devices using a standard audio cable. Because of this wide
compatibility, Bluetooth is easily the fastest-growing category of
speakers over the past year or two.
For convenience, some Bluetooth speaker systems provide Play/Pause,
Back, and Forward buttons on the speakers themselves; most tablets and
smartphones let you control music playback using these buttons. Some
Bluetooth speakers also double as a speakerphone, letting you easily
switch between music and voice features. Bluetooth speakers generally
have a wireless range of around 30 unobstructed feet.
It’s worth noting that if you listen to high-quality music files and you
have good ears, the sound quality of a Bluetooth speaker system is
usually not as good as that of a similar wired system. (A new technology
called Apt-X is helping to reduce this shortcoming. However, Apt-X isn’t yet widely supported, and you need Apt-X on both
ends of your wireless connection—your Bluetooth source and your
Bluetooth speakers.) Also, note that even though Bluetooth speakers
connect wirelessly to your music source, the rest of the system isn’t
wireless: For non-portable models, you still need a power cord, and for
systems with left and right speakers or a subwoofer, there’s usually a
cable connecting those components.
Bluetooth speakers come in all types—you may have noticed that I
included a number of Bluetooth-equipped models in the various
recommendation lists above. I provide a combined list here, noting the
type of each speaker, for readers who are looking specifically for
wireless options. Recommendations:
Libratone’s ZippAirPlay wireless speakers
Like Bluetooth speakers, AirPlay-enabled audio systems let you cut the cord, but they take advantage of Apple's AirPlay
(formerly AirTunes) technology to let you stream music, from your iOS
devices or Macs, over your local wireless network. (Some of these
systems also include an iPhone/iPod dock.) The advantages of AirPlay
over Bluetooth include better audio quality—AirPlay uses lossless audio
compression, while Bluetooth uses lossy compression—and much better
range, as you can stream anywhere within range of your Wi-Fi network.
The biggest disadvantages of AirPlay systems are that you can use them
with only Apple-branded sources, and that they tend to be quite a bit
more expensive than comparable Bluetooth systems. Recommendations:
As an alternative to buying a speaker system, you can build your own
system for your computer, smartphone, or tablet—even for Bluetooth or
AirPlay listening. A few years ago, I wrote about building an iPod/iPhone speaker system
from a small amp, a dedicated iPod dock, and a set of quality bookshelf
speakers. Many of the components in that article are no longer
available, but the how-to information is still relevant. More recently, I
wrote about building your own AirPlay-enabled audio system, and we’ve also covered several desktop amplifiers. Going this route allows you to spend as much (or as little) as you like on whatever design and level of quality you prefer.
If you’re interested in this approach, we’ve got some upcoming articles
you’ll want to watch for, including an article on adding Bluetooth to an
existing speaker or stereo system; a roundup of desktop amps with a
built-in digital-to-analog converter for getting quality audio from your
computer; and an updated version of that AirPlay do-it-yourself
article.
Out with the old, in with the new. The way tech changes and evolves
these days, it’s not uncommon to want to unload your old gear every few
years in favor of newer, better, shinier stuff: a faster laptop, a
slimmer tablet, or a more-powerful smartphone.
Of course, in order to make way for that new gear, you’ll have to decide
what to do with your old hardware. Instead of just tossing it in a
drawer, many users opt to sell it, which can help defray the cost of new
stuff.
But where’s the best place to sell used tech? How can you keep your
devices in good shape so you get maximum resale value? And, most
importantly, how do you wipe away all traces of your personal data?
The good news is that these important questions don’t have complicated
answers. With a little know-how, you can easily get a healthy return on
your old gear and make sure it’s as empty of data as the day you bought
it.
Step 1: Wipe it clean
It’s a good bet that any laptop, smartphone, or tablet you own contains a
wealth of information about you. Your device’s data may include
anything from your address book to your Amazon account ID to several
years’ worth of TurboTax data.
Needless to say, you wouldn’t want the new owner to see even a shred of
this data, which is why it’s important to erase it all before you make
the sale. (All the following instructions presume that you’ve already
backed up any data you wish to preserve.)
If you’re selling a tablet or smartphone, this is easier than you might think.
On an older Android device, simply tap Menu, Settings, Privacy, Factory data reset.
With a newer version of Android, tap Menu, Settings, scroll down to the Personal section, tap Back up and reset, then Factory data reset.
On an iOS device, tap Settings, General, then scroll to the bottom and tap Reset. Finally, tap Erase All Content and Settings.
Laptops are a little more complicated. One option is to reformat the
hard drive and reinstall the operating system, which is great if the
system came with recovery discs. For Windows PCs, you can follow detailed instructions here. For Mac OS X computers, Macworld has detailed instructions here, and Apple has instructions here.
If there’s no easy reformat/recovery option, you can go the manual
route: delete all your personal folders, then uninstall any programs
that might contain private data, such as Quicken, iTunes, and
instant-messaging applications. Be sure to empty the Recycle Bin or
Trash when you’re done.
On Windows, the next step is to go into user-management settings and
create a new user with administrator privileges. Log into that new
account, then delete your old user account (including the Home folder,
if Windows asks about it). Finally, install and run a utility such as Eraser,
which can permanently overwrite any unused space on the hard drive and
delete your old data forever. Just make sure to read the instructions
carefully so that you don’t accidentally wipe the whole drive.
Step 2: Make the sale
Now that you’ve given your gear a digital scrubbing, you’re ready to
turn it into cold, hard cash. One key question you’ll need to answer:
Are you willing to accept less money in exchange for a faster, easier
sale, or do you want to maximize your profit, even if it means more work
and some uncertainty?
If you’re in the latter camp, head to old-standby services like
Craigslist and Ebay, where you can build your own ad/auction and set the
price for your device. There’s no guarantee you’ll get that price, and
it could take days or even weeks before your item sells if it sells at
all. On the other hand, if it’s an in-demand item and you’re asking a
reasonable amount, you could end up with cash (or PayPal) in your pocket
before the day is out.
Haven’t used these services before? You can find some helpful advice by reading our Craigslist tips for power users and EBay laptop-selling tips.
If you’re looking for a faster, more hassle-free option, consider a trade-in. Amazon's reseller program, Best Buy's trade-in program, and dedicated online services such as Gazelle, and NextWorth
all offer cash (or electronic gift cards) in exchange for used phones,
tablets, iPods, and other electronics. Some, but not all, will accept
cameras, game consoles, and laptops, as well.
The process works like this: You provide a few details about your item
(make, model, condition, etc.), then the service quotes you a trade-in
price. If you accept the offer, you’ll get a prepaid shipping label so
you can send in the gear. Once the company receives it and verifies the
condition, you get your cash or credit.
The downside, of course, is that you won’t get top dollar for your
stuff. And there’s a chance you’ll get even less if the service decides
it doesn’t match your description. But the trade-in option is definitely
the quickest and most convenient way to go. For many sellers, that
might be worth a lower payout.
Step 3: Plan for future sales
It’s crazy to think about, but at some point down the road, your shiny
new laptop/smartphone/tablet will end up as your tired old
laptop/smartphone/tablet. When that happens, you’ll want to sell it just
like you’re doing with your old stuff right now.
By planning ahead, you can ensure maximum resale value in the future.
For starters, skip the engraving. It may seem like a nice way to
personalize a phone or tablet, but it’ll turn off potential buyers and
lower the trade-in value. If you really want personalization, consider a
customized skin that you can remove cleanly.
If it’s a phone or tablet, you should also apply a screen protector to
thwart scratches and reduce the risk of breakage if the device takes a
tumble. Likewise, minimize scuffs and other signs of wear by always
keeping it in a case.
Finally, make sure you keep everything that came with your device: the
box, the accessories, and even the receipt, just in case the buyer wants
proof of purchase for warranty purposes. Your ultimate goal is to make
your old gear seem as new as possible, because that’s how you’ll get the
best resale return on your investment.
ENJOY....:)
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